Wednesday, December 26, 2012

A Night of Baumkuchen, Geflugal Salat, and a Real Candle Lit Weinachtsbaum








Christmas Eve with the Kochs was like the picture-perfect, traditional celebration that you would imagine to be in a movie or something. Oli decorated everything beautifully, with the tree and gifts all being a surprise. What happened is on the day before Christmas Eve (Helige Abend in German), Me, Oli and Sylvia carried the giant, 4 meter pine tree into the house, being careful that it didn’t scrape the beautiful, 100 year old paintings on the walls of the house, or knock down the old crystal chandelier. As we struggled to push the tree through the tight entryway, people standing on the street outside were staring and pointing:)

Then, the tree was put up in the living room and made stable with a wooden stand. I figured we would then decorate it, but nope. Oli explained that in German tradition, the “Christkind” (kind of like Santa Claus, he is the child that brings the gifts) is supposed to decorate it when he comes to bring the presents on the evening of the 24th. How the Christkind has time to do all that beats me, but I guess it’s just magic:)




Jonas in awe of the giant tree

Felix too!

Hehe:)





Oli carefully removing the "tree packaging"



Well, Christmas Eve rolled around and we went to the Children’s church service (Gottesdienst) at our local German church at 4:30pm. The church was PACKED FULL of German expats. We watched the old priest as she guided us through some German Christmas hymns and songs, and then introduced the group of children dressed up to put on the nativity play. Then 5 little girls dressed as angles came on stage and began telling the story.

After the service, we arrived home and immediately Sylvia told the boys to go in their room to play and wait for the Christkind to come. I was a little confused about what was supposed to happen now, so Sylvia explained that now the boys, me and her will all wait upstairs and the “Christkind” will come (technically Oli) and decorate the tree and put the presents under the tree. When we hear a little ring of a bell, we know we can come down.

To make the wait not feel so long, Sylvia brought a platter of chocolate covered Lebkuchen, chocolate truffles, speculoos cookies and clementines upstairs for us to nibble on. 




We played charades with the boys, and every once in a while we would tell them to be quiet and put their ears to the floor to see if they can hear the Christkind downstairs. At one point, we had them look out the window and pointed to a smoky white light sweeping across the dark sky. Sylvia said, “Look, look, it is the Christkind leaving! He has come!” The light really did look magical, although I believe it was just a search light from the city.

A few minutes later, we heard the light tinkling of the bell. The boys sprinted down the stairs, me and Sylvia carrying Felix close behind. We stopped at the big wooden door that leads to the living room, which was closed. We knocked on it, and then it was slowly opened by Oli, revealing the beautiful big tree, now decorated with shiny red ornaments, hand-made red stars, wooden angles and, best of all, lots and lots of real burning candles sitting on its branches. Other candles were lit all over the living room, on the tables and on the windmill, even on the piano. A plate of more goodies, including baumkuchen, sat on the table. And, of course, what the boys were staring at—the gifts. There were 6 piles circled under and around the tree, each with a card, one with each of our names hand-written on it.







Everyone was just in awe by the beautiful tree. We stood together, just staring, even the boys. Then, as if on cue, Jonas went right over to the piano and began playing Silent Night, which he could play perfectly now, since he has been practicing it the last month. Oliver gave each of us a photo-copied paper of the lyrics (in German of course!) and we all sang along. Then we sang some American Christmas carols (which I proudly did not need the lyrics for! …well except for the last verse of Jingle Bells, which I feel like I have never heard in my life). We sang Jingle Bells and We Wish You a Merry Christmas, holding hands and dancing around, even Felix bobbing his head and getting into it.:) Then, Niki stood up in the middle of the living room and told a Christmas “story”. This is another German tradition I never knew about. The children are supposed to prepare a traditional Christmas story (well, it’s more like a poem because it rhymes) that they recite for the family on Christmas eve. Niki recited his very well. 



We then sang another carol, and then it was Jonas’s turn. He tried out a longer, more complicated story about good and bad children and how they are treated by Saint Nikolas. He forgot one part and became a little teary, but we found the story in one of his books and helped him finish it. Finally, we held hands around the tree and sang one last traditional religious German carol about Mary and Joseph. Then, Oli got out some nice fancy champagne and poured me, Sylvia and himself a glass. We even had “Kinder Champagne” for the boys. 


Felix enjoying (maybe a little too much..) his Kinder Champagne!


Finally, it was time to open the presents. Sylvia took the kid’s plastic champagne bottle, and we all sat in a circle and spun the bottle. Whoever it landed on got to open one of their presents! This lasted for a while, until we realized it would simply take forever if we kept going with this strategy. So, the boys were finally let loose to open all their presents at once. I was happy to open the presents my dad had brought with him from New York, but I was also excited to see that the Kochs also gave me some gifts. Even Jonas gave me a candle hand-made by himself! From Oliver, I received the famous book, The Hobbit, which he said is a must read, as well as a guide for Paris (in FRENCH, that makes me worried a bit..). From Sylvia, I got a funny German comedy DVD about two guys who figure out how to make legal marijuana (she told me she saw it on a plane once and thought it was hilarious, but I was still a little skeptical about what she really thought of me after this gift as well as another book she gave me for Saint Nikolas day on the 6th , which was about sex and drugs in Berlin.. Did I ever say something that could have given her the wrong idea about me??) Well, I am happy anyway because the movie looks quite good. They also gave me a beautiful Swiss watch! I couldn’t believe that they would get me such an expensive gift, but it is really nice:)


Giant box of Legos! Just what they wanted:)

New PJs!!

 After all the gifts were unwrapped, we sat down for a dinner of traditional German Christmas cuisine, including smoked Aal (eel), Lachs (salmon) and Forelle (trout) with all the different sauces and brown bread. Sylvia also prepared Oli’s favorite Christmas dish which is from a family recipe given to Sylvia by Oliver’s mother who is very, very German. It is basically a cold chicken salad (geflugal salat) with lots and lots of mayo and mushrooms, peas, mandarin slices, all from cans! The salad was made during and directly after the war, when the only food anyone could get was canned. Sylvia tried to convince Oli and his mother that we do not live during war times anymore and therefore do not need to force ourselves to eat food from cans, but they insist it is a traditional Christmas staple. Honestly though, I did try the salad and well, let’s just say it’s not my favorite.....



Mmmhhhh geflugal salat!



Sylvia was also forced to make some kind of cold fish dish, which she named “German Sushi”, saying it with a look of disgust on her face. It is made with a layer of RAW fish, sour cream, more regular cream poured on top, RAW onions and piece of apple, then another layer of fish, sour cream, cream, onions, apples and crushed rose pepper (which sounds good but I swear it tastes awful). All I can say is that I am thankful that I am not the only one who finds these German dishes disgusting and just inedible, because otherwise I would feel very uncomfortable.

It is quite entertaining to hear Sylvia make fun of the recipes, telling us about a “How I Met Your Mother” episode where a couple goes to the boyfriend’s German parent’s house for Christmas and they are all proud to share their homemade, traditional pasta dish with a layer of pasta, a thick layer of mayo, another thick layer of pasta and then over-cooked fish on top. They all loved it, but the girlfriend couldn’t stand it and felt very uncomfortable. Oliver got a little annoyed when Sylvia told us this story, saying it was rude and made fun of German traditions.. :)

Santa Niki sitting happily at the table with the Weinachtskranz


After dinner we enjoyed a little French/Belgian touch for dessert—a real Bouche de Noël freshly made by a local pâtisserie. I did not know this, but real Bouche de Noëls have a layer of fruit in the middle, with another thin layer of dark chocolate, a bottom layer of salty-sweet crunchy biscuit and then all covered with a thin layer of butter cream. All the flavors of the different layers are supposed to complement each other to make the perfect taste combination. This is very different from the Americanized Bouche, which is pretty much a chocolate buttercream bomb with no flavor other than sugar and fat. This Bouche de Noël, however, was delicious, and probably one of my favorite desserts now. Sylvia ordered one with passion fruit/mango inside, which sounds strange but the tanginess of the passion fruit with the dark chocolate and saltiness of the biscuit was amazing.






The mango passion fruit layer is the rounded one on the very inside, then under it is the dark chocolate mousse, then all around is the buttercream, and on the bottom is the salty/sweet biscuit. What an amazing flavor combination!



Here are the candles that were on the tree. They are real German ones, made of honey bees wax. When they burn, you can smell the faint scent of honey in the air.



This is the candle holder with a weight attached used to keep the candle upright on the tree, so the tree doesn't catch on fire and the entire house burns down. Oli says this has surprisingly never happened to him... let's just say thanks to the precise German engineering of these candle holders!


Tuesday, December 25, 2012

Traditional Speculoos and the "Modern Christmas Tree" meet in Brussels








So, now for some insight into the Belgian way of celebrating the holiday season…

Brussels puts together a very nice, quite large Christmas market downtown surrounding the Grande Place, as well as in the big “Place Saint Catherine” where a large open square is and a giant old stone church stands at one end. The market consists of many little wooden huts lined up next to each other in two long rows. 





 Each hut sells something totally different, and they are in no particular order. Therefore, you simply have to wander around and take a look at all the different foods, including pastries, crepes, churros (yes, Mexican food even found its way into Belgium), cheeses (there is a special bright green cheese they sell that looks disgusting but is actually delicious. It is only green due to the large amount of fresh basil mixed into it), fresh bread, Swiss potato tartiflette (sliced potatoes with melted Swiss cheese, ham, cream and lots of herbs), Raclette on bread, sea snails in a broth (escargots, specially fast food you can find anywhere on the street in Brussels), oysters, mussels and frites, as well as every kind of holiday related alcoholic drink you can think of such as vin chaud (hot wine), jägermeister, and this special liquor with a million different flavors that I can’t remember the name of. You can also find huts selling handmade goods such as wooden statues, woolen hats and scarves, pottery, jewelry… 




(above) Cougnou de Brussels a specialty only made in Brussels, it is a sweet bread that can have almost anything added to it, from raisins, to almond paste, speculoos cream, chocolate pieces and more.

Roasted chestnuts! (Marrons)


 Swiss Tartiflette (enough to feed an army...or a Brussels xmas market full of hungry tourists;)



The popular, world-famous Tête Choco, a giant chocolate covered marshmallow. Every country in the world has their own version of this sugary treat. Here in Brussels, we offer a marshmallow with every kind of chocolate flavor you can think of, including cinnamon, lemon and mint.


In addition to hot wine (vin chaud) warm Kriek (cherry beer) is also popular.

French for cotton candy! (literally translates to "papa's beard")

The popular Jagermeister tent

Original Brussels style waffle

Vin chaud brewing

We even have tree-shaped waffles!


The Christmas specialty of Brussels, Speculoos cookies. Here is an especially giant one!




At the end of the rows of little houses was the giant looming Diamond Ferris wheel, which I had the pleasure of riding on with my daddy! The wheel really gives you the best view of the entire city of Brussels you can get. From one side, you can see the glittering Atomium, and on the other, the rows and rows of huts with colorful lights and the brightly purple lit church at the end. Then laid out under you is the big ice rink in the center of the market, with people of all ages skating around on the ice.





Pretty lanterns near the market


Other happenings I came across during the holiday season in Brussels include this parade with a bunch of old people carrying a copy of the Mannekin Pis on a stick,dressed as St. Nick. He even could pee! I was walking in front and suddenly felt a splash of wetness on my pants. I looked behind me, and the "Mannekin Pis" was peeing on me! Only in Belgium...




Janneken Pis dressed up like Mrs. Claus (girl version of Mannekin Pis)



 I also participated in the Santa Con. This is when all the expats in Brussels dress up as Santas (or Mrs. Clauses) and march around the city together, going to the market and spreading Christmas joy. The Chinese tourists seemed to especially enjoy this. I had maybe ten different Chinese people come up to me and ask if they could have a picture with me...













A snowman (bonhomme de neige in French) building contest is another popular activity. Club Med, which has a couple stores in Brussels, builds a giant "Snow Chalet" and hauls in a bunch of snow for the contest.





Jonas in his Christmas concert




The so-called “modern Christmas tree” has caused a lot of hoo-ha in the city of Brussels. Every year since as long as anyone can remember, the city has put up and beautifully decorated a giant, real sapin de Noël, or pine tree. However, this year they tried to spice things up a bit and try something new. But, not everyone is very pleased. Actually, hardly anyone is. Instead of getting a real tree, a giant metal/LED tree was fabricated out of giant boxes. The idea was to try something more “modern”, environmentally friendly, new, and provide something that people can climb to the top of and have a nice view of the beautiful Grande Place below. Now, I applaud the Brussels electricity company for going for something new (they are the ones who sponsor and provide electricity of the tree every year), but this tree is pretty hideous. What do you think?



View from the top

Now, the tree wouldn’t be so bad if it’s surroundings were just as modern as it is. But the Grande Place is so classic, so old, that the tree just totally looks out of place. Kind of like a giant, boxy alien. Now, I think at night, when the tree is all lit up, it actually looks very nice. They do a light show with coordinating music every night of the week, and it is actually quite impressive. They even shine bright, colorful lights on the old buildings in the Grande Place. Here are some pictures:










And even a video of the light show! Fast forward to the 5 min mark, then it gets really exciting! Click the link below:

"Modern Christmas Tree" at Grande Place, Brussels